PLA vs PETG vs ABS vs TPU: Choosing the Right Filament for Your Print
PLA vs PETG vs ABS vs TPU: Choosing the Right Filament for Your Print
The most common question we get at the showroom: "Which filament should I use?" The short answer is PLA for most things. The long answer is everything below.
TL;DR
PLA is easiest and works for most hobby prints. PETG is the go-to for functional parts that need durability and some heat resistance. ABS is for heat-resistant parts but requires an enclosure and ventilation. TPU is for flexible, rubber-like prints. Start with PLA; upgrade to PETG when you outgrow it.
PLA (Polylactic Acid)
PLA is the default filament for most beginner and intermediate printers — and for good reason. It prints at low temperatures, sticks to most bed surfaces, produces minimal warping, and doesn't require an enclosure. It's also biodegradable (derived from corn starch or sugarcane).
Strengths
- Easiest to print — low temp (195–220°C)
- Minimal warping, no enclosure needed
- Excellent detail and surface finish
- Huge colour and composite range
- Good for miniatures, decorative, prototypes
Weaknesses
- Low heat resistance (~55–60°C HDT)
- Brittle under impact compared to PETG/ABS
- Degrades over time in UV/outdoor exposure
- Not suitable for car interiors or mechanical stress
Best for: Miniatures, figurines, display pieces, cosplay props, household gadgets, prototypes, decorative items.
PETG (Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol)
PETG is the sweet spot between PLA ease and ABS toughness. It's tougher than PLA, more heat resistant, and slightly flexible — which actually helps with impact resistance. It's the most popular functional filament for intermediate users.
PETG is also food-safe when printed correctly (though printed parts aren't truly food-safe due to layer gaps harbouring bacteria — for food contact, use it as a mould not a vessel).
Strengths
- Higher heat resistance than PLA (~80°C HDT)
- Tough and impact resistant
- Slightly flexible — won't snap under load
- Good chemical resistance
- No enclosure required (though helps)
Weaknesses
- More stringing than PLA — retraction tuning needed
- Sticks very aggressively to PEI — use glue stick release layer
- Slightly lower detail resolution than PLA
- Can be stringy in overhangs
⚠️ PEI Surface Warning: PETG bonds extremely well to PEI/spring steel sheets — so well it can tear chunks off the surface. Always apply a thin glue stick layer to your PEI bed when printing PETG.
Best for: Mechanical parts, clips, brackets, tool holders, outdoor items (better UV resistance than PLA), anything that will be handled or stressed.
ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene)
ABS is the classic engineering thermoplastic — used in LEGO, car dashboards, and electronics enclosures. It's strong, tough, and heat resistant up to ~100°C. But it's significantly harder to print than PLA or PETG and requires a heated enclosure to prevent warping.
Strengths
- High heat resistance (~100°C HDT)
- Good impact toughness
- Sandable and acetone-smoothable
- Works in car interiors and electronics enclosures
Weaknesses
- Warps badly without an enclosure
- Emits styrene fumes — ventilation essential
- High print temp: 230–250°C nozzle, 100–110°C bed
- More skill required to get consistent results
Don't print ABS in an unventilated space. The fumes contain styrene, a suspected carcinogen. Print in a ventilated room or use a printer with an active filtration enclosure.
Best for: Car interior replacement parts, electronics enclosures, high-heat applications, parts requiring post-processing (acetone smoothing).
TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane)
TPU is the flexible filament. It prints like rubber — stretchy, grippy, and impact-absorbing. Shore hardness varies by brand: 95A is relatively firm (like a shoe sole), 85A is quite soft. It's chemical resistant and has good abrasion resistance.
Strengths
- Flexible and impact-absorbing
- Excellent abrasion resistance
- Good chemical resistance
- Works for gaskets, grips, phone cases, tyres
Weaknesses
- Difficult with Bowden extruders — direct drive strongly preferred
- Slow print speeds required (20–30mm/s)
- Can be stringy
- Not compatible with all slicers' defaults — manual tuning needed
Best for: Phone cases, RC car tyres, shoe soles, gaskets, anti-vibration feet, cable protectors, grips for tools and handles.
Quick Reference
| Filament | Nozzle Temp | Bed Temp | Enclosure | Heat Resistance | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| PLA | 195–220°C | 55–65°C | Not needed | ~55°C | ⭐ Easy |
| PETG | 230–245°C | 70–85°C | Optional | ~80°C | ⭐⭐ Moderate |
| ABS | 230–250°C | 100–110°C | Required | ~100°C | ⭐⭐⭐ Hard |
| TPU | 220–235°C | 30–60°C | Not needed | ~80°C | ⭐⭐⭐ Hard (direct drive required) |
Which Filament Should I Start With?
If you're new to 3D printing:
Start with PLA. It's forgiving, inexpensive, and works in a wide range of colours. Get comfortable with your printer settings before experimenting with other materials.
If you're printing functional parts:
Move to PETG. Most printers that can do PLA can also do PETG with the same setup. Just remember the glue stick on PEI.
If you need heat or chemical resistance (car parts, outdoors):
ABS or ASA (a UV-stable ABS alternative). Make sure you have an enclosure and ventilation first.
All filaments in stock at the showroom
PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU — multiple brands and colours available at Toner and Ink, Audas Estate, Somerset West.
Visit the Showroom