Resin vs FDM 3D Printing: Which Is Right for You?
Resin vs FDM: Which 3D Printer Is Right for You?
Both technologies have matured enormously and entry-level machines now cost under R6,000. The right choice depends entirely on what you're making — not which is "better."
TL;DR
FDM prints are larger, stronger, and use cheaper materials — ideal for functional parts, prototypes, and large objects. Resin prints have extraordinary detail at the microscopic level — ideal for miniatures, jewellery casting, dental models, and display pieces. Resin requires more post-processing and ventilation. Most makers end up wanting both.
How Each Technology Works
FDM (Fused Deposition Modelling)
A heated nozzle melts plastic filament and deposits it in layers on a build plate. Each layer fuses to the one below. The printer moves in X, Y, and Z axes to build the shape layer by layer from the bottom up.
MSLA Resin (Most Common Resin Type)
A UV-masked LCD screen cures an entire layer of liquid photopolymer resin at once. The build plate lifts layer by layer, pulling the print upward out of the resin vat. Resolution is limited by the LCD pixel size — 4K screens on budget machines achieve 35–50 micron XY resolution.
Detail: Resin Wins, But FDM Is Catching Up
Resin printers produce detail that FDM simply cannot match at any price. A R5,000 Elegoo Saturn or Anycubic Photon M5 will out-resolve a R50,000 FDM machine for small detailed work.
Typical resolution comparison:
| Spec | Entry FDM | Quality FDM | Entry Resin |
|---|---|---|---|
| Layer height | 100–300 microns | 50–200 microns | 25–100 microns |
| XY resolution | ~400 microns (0.4mm nozzle) | ~250 microns (0.25mm nozzle) | 35–50 microns (4K LCD) |
| Visible layer lines | Yes, clearly visible | Visible on curves | Not visible to naked eye |
For tabletop miniatures (Warhammer scale, D&D), resin is the only practical choice. A 28mm figure with facial detail, chainmail texture, and fine weapons simply doesn't print meaningfully on FDM.
Build Volume: FDM Wins
A typical entry FDM printer (Ender 3, Bambu A1 Mini) offers 220×220×250mm. Larger FDM printers go up to 300×300×400mm or beyond. Even budget "large-format" resin like the Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra offers 218×123×260mm — smaller in one dimension and constrained to much smaller practical prints due to resin consumption.
For cosplay armour, props, product prototypes, architectural models, or anything you want to print in one piece at scale, FDM is the only realistic choice.
Post-Processing: Resin Requires More Work
FDM: peel off the part, remove supports, done (mostly). Some sanding, some priming. Relatively quick.
Resin: this is where new users often underestimate the workflow:
- Print completes — part is dripping with uncured liquid resin
- Wash in isopropyl alcohol (IPA) or a washing station — 2–5 minutes
- Air dry briefly
- Post-cure under UV light for 2–5 minutes to fully harden
- Remove supports (easier on resin than FDM, but care needed for fine details)
You'll also need: gloves (resin is a skin sensitiser and shouldn't touch bare skin), a wash station or IPA container, a UV curing station, and good ventilation. Uncured resin is considered a hazardous material — handle responsibly.
Safety note: Always wear nitrile gloves when handling uncured resin or washing parts. Print in a ventilated space — resin fumes are harmful. Dispose of contaminated IPA and paper towels as chemical waste, not in your normal bin.
Material Cost Comparison
| Material | Typical SA Price | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| PLA filament (1kg) | R280–R450 | Most widely stocked |
| PETG filament (1kg) | R350–R550 | Functional parts |
| Standard resin (500ml) | R280–R450 | 500ml is roughly half a 1kg spool in density |
| ABS-like / Tough resin (500ml) | R500–R900 | Engineering-grade resin |
Side-by-Side Summary
| Factor | FDM | Resin (MSLA) |
|---|---|---|
| Detail quality | Good | Excellent |
| Build volume | Large | Medium–small |
| Part strength | Strong | Brittle (standard resin) |
| Post-processing | Minimal | Wash + cure required |
| Safety requirements | Minimal | Gloves + ventilation |
| Beginner friendliness | Easier | Steeper learning curve |
| Best use case | Functional parts, large prints, prototypes | Miniatures, jewellery, dental, display pieces |
Do You Need Both?
Many serious makers end up with both. The workflow often becomes: FDM for structural components, bases, and large pieces — resin for detail inserts, faces, fine weapons, and anything that will be painted and displayed.
For hobbyists just starting out, start with FDM. It teaches you the fundamentals of 3D printing — bed adhesion, supports, slicing, calibration — without the chemical handling overhead of resin. If you end up printing miniatures or detailed jewellery, add a resin printer later.
See both printers in action at our showroom
We have FDM and resin printers running at the Toner and Ink showroom in Audas Estate, Somerset West. Come see the difference in person before you buy.
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