Slicer Settings Explained: Layer Height, Infill, Walls & Temperature | Toner and Ink
Your slicer converts a 3D model into printer instructions. The profile is the translation rulebook. Understanding even a handful of key settings dramatically improves your print quality.
TL;DR
Start with a manufacturer preset for your printer and filament. Understand layer height (quality vs speed), wall count (strength), infill (strength vs material), and temperature settings first. Only change one setting at a time when troubleshooting. Save a profile for each filament roll and printer combination — don't tune from scratch each time.
The Big Four Settings
These four settings control 80% of print outcome. Get these right before touching anything else.
1. Layer Height
Controls the thickness of each printed layer. The quality/speed trade-off in a single setting.
| Layer Height | Print Time | Surface Quality | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0.1mm | Very slow | Excellent | Miniatures, fine detail, jewellery |
| 0.2mm | Standard | Good — the default for good reason | General purpose — start here |
| 0.3mm | Fast | Visible lines | Drafts, functional prototypes |
| 0.4mm | Very fast | Rough | Structural test prints, large infill-heavy parts |
Rule: layer height should be 25–75% of nozzle diameter. For a 0.4mm nozzle: 0.1–0.3mm range.
2. Wall Count (Perimeters)
The number of outlines traced before filling with infill. More walls = stronger part, better surface finish, more material.
- 2 walls: Minimum — don't go lower for anything structural
- 3 walls: Standard default — good for most general prints
- 4+ walls: Strong structural parts, pressure or snap-fit components
- High-strength parts: Increasing wall count often beats increasing infill percentage for strength
3. Infill Percentage and Pattern
The internal structure filling the part. The percentage is how solid (15% = mostly air, 100% = completely solid).
10–20%
Decorative, non-structural. Saves material and time.
20–40% ✓ Most common
General-purpose. Good strength, reasonable material use.
50–80%
Structural parts needing impact resistance.
100%
Maximum strength. Long print time. Usually only needed for small load-bearing parts.
Infill pattern: Gyroid and cubic patterns distribute strength in all directions — better for most parts. Lines and grid patterns are faster but weaker in Z. Lightning pattern is excellent for pure speed with minimal strength requirement.
4. Print and Bed Temperature
Start with the filament manufacturer's recommended range. The first layer should be 5–10°C higher than the rest of the print for better adhesion. Reduce temperature if you see stringing; increase if you see poor layer adhesion or weak layers.
Quick temperature reference (starting points — check your specific filament brand)
- PLA: 190–220°C nozzle, 50–60°C bed
- PETG: 230–250°C nozzle, 70–85°C bed
- ABS: 230–250°C nozzle, 100–110°C bed (enclosed printer recommended)
- TPU: 220–240°C nozzle, 30–60°C bed, print slowly (20–30mm/s)
Secondary Settings Worth Knowing
Retraction
Pulls filament back before travel moves to prevent stringing. Too little = strings; too much = clogs. Direct drive: 0.5–2mm. Bowden: 4–7mm. Adjust in 0.5mm increments.
Print Speed
Faster = less time but more risk of vibration artefacts and poor adhesion. First layer should be slow (20–30mm/s regardless of overall speed). Outer walls should print slower than infill for best surface quality.
Fan / Cooling
PLA: 100% fan after first layer. PETG: 50% or less (too much cooling weakens layer adhesion). ABS: fan off or minimal (warping). TPU: moderate fan.
Support Settings
Z distance (gap between support and part): 0.1–0.2mm for easy removal. Interface layers (dense support top) greatly improve the surface quality where support touches the part. Tree supports use less material for organic shapes.
Save Your Profiles — Don't Start From Scratch
Once you've dialled in settings for a filament on your printer, save a named profile. "Ender3-PLA-Generic-0.2mm" is more useful than "my profile". Include printer name, filament brand/type, layer height, and any key customisations.
Most slicers (Cura, PrusaSlicer, Bambu Studio, OrcaSlicer) support profile import/export. Back up your profiles — losing them to a reinstall or slicer update means retuning everything from scratch.
Need filament that matches your profile?
Consistent filament from a quality brand means your saved profiles stay accurate print to print. Visit us in Somerset West and we'll help you choose.
Come See UsFrequently Asked Questions
Which slicer should I use — Cura, PrusaSlicer, or Bambu Studio?
It depends on your printer. Bambu Studio is optimised for Bambu Lab printers and is excellent for that ecosystem. PrusaSlicer works brilliantly for Prusa printers and is highly regarded for its clean interface and accurate supports. Cura has the largest community and plugin ecosystem and works well with almost every printer. OrcaSlicer (Bambu Studio fork) is increasingly popular for non-Bambu printers. Try one and stick with it — the time spent learning a slicer's advanced features pays off more than switching.
Why does my print look different from the slicer preview?
Slicers show an ideal simulation. Real differences come from: your printer's actual dimensions (may differ from the profile's calibration), filament diameter variation, nozzle wear, and environmental factors. The slicer preview is a target — use it to catch obvious problems (missing walls, support placement) but always verify against actual prints. Measure your calibration cubes.
How do I reduce stringing?
In order: 1) Increase retraction distance slightly (0.5mm at a time). 2) Increase retraction speed. 3) Lower print temperature by 5°C. 4) Enable "wipe on retract" in your slicer. 5) Reduce travel speed (counterintuitively, faster travel sometimes strings less — test both). Stringing is worse with PETG than PLA by nature; some is normal with PETG even with good settings. Print a stringing tower to isolate the setting quickly.
What's the difference between a draft shield and a brim?
A brim is extra material printed flat around the base of your model, extending from the first layer outward — it increases bed adhesion for parts with small footprints. It's removed after printing. A draft shield is a wall printed around the entire print to protect from air currents and keep temperature stable — mostly used for ABS to prevent warping. They serve different purposes and can be used together.